A trip to Kohima and Khonoma

The mysteries of Nagaland -- the vibrant people, the folklore of the fierce Naga warriors, the mountains, the valleys, and the forests -- have attracted me for a long time.

One of the states of Seven Sisters in the northeast region of India, Nagaland is mostly known to Bangladeshi tourists for the Hornbill festival and Dzukou valley. But the state's rich heritage, history and natural beauty are more than those.

Though I have explored the neighbouring Indian states -- Assam, Meghalaya, and Tripura -- several times in the last decade, I never had the opportunity to visit Nagaland.

Well, the opportunity came last October. Though the trip was planned with a group of fellow travellers, visa issues allowed only two of us to set out for the Indian state.

Our journey began on an October morning last year when we set foot on Indian soil after completing immigration at the Tamabil landport. Our first destination was Guwahati, Assam's capital. While we could have taken a shared jeep from Dawki Bazar to Shillong, we opted for the comfort of a reserved taxi for Rs 2000. After reaching Shillong around midday, we had lunch, purchased Indian SIM cards, and then caught a shared sumo jeep bound for Guwahati. The nearly 100-kilometre ride through winding roads cost us Rs 300 each.

Our next destination was Dimapur, the entrance of Nagaland.

We reached Guwahati around 8:00pm and went straight to the rail station and bought general compartment tickets for Rs 95 each. However, we later could manage a sleeper compartment managing the TT. It cost us some extra money, but the five hours of sleep in our tight schedule later proved handy.

Upon reaching Dimapur early in the morning, we adhered to official protocol by registering our passports at the local police station. Next, we shared a car to Kohima for Rs 330 each. After reaching Kohima, we checked in at a lodge.

With a quick freshening up, our day began with a tour of Kohima city. Established in 1878 as the headquarters of the Naga Hill district during the British Empire, Kohima officially became the capital of Nagaland in 1963. The city is home to a cemetery of World War II. Utilizing Google Maps, we first walked to the cemetery, which bore a striking resemblance to the war cemetery in Cumilla. Rows of epitaphs marked the graves of 1,420 soldiers who perished in the June 1944 Battle of Kohima. Ascending further through the verdant graveyard, we reached the towering crucifix of Jesus Christ that stood atop the hill.

Our next destination was the Kohima central museum, but to our dismay, it was closed as it was Saturday. Kohima's hilly terrain made even short distances feel long, so we proceeded to the taxi stand from the museum in search of a ride to our ultimate destination of the day, Khonoma village. One notable aspect of Kohima was the fixed transport rates.

We hired a car for Rs 1,300 for a round trip and offered the driver a bit extra for a detour to Kohima central cathedral, which he gladly accepted.

The approximately 20-kilometre journey to Khonoma felt like a roller coaster ride through hilly roads. After about 45 minutes, we paused at a viewpoint just before entering Khonoma village. The sight of terraced crop fields in the valley below was simply mesmerizing. We also spotted monuments dedicated to Khrisanisa Seyie, the first president of the state, and Sievizo Seyie, a legendary Nagaland warrior.

As we entered Khonoma, we passed through a newly built stone gate and an entry point where entry fees were collected, along with the option to hire a guide. Unknowingly, we began exploring the village on our own, but we later paid the Rs 100 per foreign tourist entry fee upon our return.

Khonoma, situated at approximately 5,000 feet above sea level, is home to around 3,000 people from the Angami ethnic group. The Angamis' courage and resistance against British invasion have set them apart in history. They vehemently opposed the British from 1832 to 1880, engaging in a series of battles. In 1879, the infamous Battle of Khonoma saw 27 British soldiers, including their leader, ambushed by Angami warriors. These conflicts ultimately culminated in a peace agreement in 1880.

Often referred to as the first green village in India, Khonoma is characterized by the intimate bond between its people and nature. The Angamis have inhabited this village for nearly 700 years, and it is their ancestral duty to protect it. Although they once relied on hunting for sustenance, the ban on hunting animals in 1998 forced them to adapt to a new way of life, one that prioritised nature's conservation.

As we strolled down the rocky village paths, our fascination deepened with each step. Descending further, we marvelled at the terraced crop fields in the valley, akin to picturesque wallpaper. On the opposite side of the village lay a forest renowned for the Tragopan bird. This forest had been declared a Tragopan sanctuary and provided refuge to various endangered mammal species, including the clouded leopard, Asiatic black bear, and hoolock gibbon.

Our exploration led us to a stone-built house, and our curiosity drew us inside. To our surprise, it was not a residence but a historic stone fort symbolising resistance against British invasion. In recent years, it had been repurposed as an auditorium for local gatherings. From the rooftop of the fort, we gazed upon the entire village, awestruck by its beauty.

As we reluctantly made our way back, we couldn't help but appreciate the aesthetics of the village's rocky dwellings. Khonoma's serenity was so captivating that we could have easily spent an entire day in quiet contemplation. Regrettably, we hadn't planned for an overnight stay, but we had to continue our journey, leaving this heavenly village behind.

Our next destination was the famous Dzukou Valley. But that is another story and shall be told another time.